Astipalaia - sailing to heart of the southern aegean sea
Astipalaia is an island on the southernmost part of the aegean sea. One should keep this nearly forgotten island as a secret, unfortunately, even secrets area little spoiled soon. However, even if tourism changed the summer-tranquility already, but in spring, autumn and the wintertime, Astipalaiia is still unspoiled and a greek heaven. The island looks like a butterfly and has many bays and small beaches. The island of Astipalaiia is located between the island of Thira, as well named Santorini. Halfway between the islands is the very small Anafi.
Amorgos is about 45 nm NW and it´s usually a pretty hard trip to sail from Astipalaiia to Amorgos in summer, when Meltemi is blowing from NW. In the east, one can reach levitha and then Kos, Tilos, Chalki and Rhodes.
In
the
port of Skala one can get water and electricity, but
the host must be called (phone number at the post on the ferry-pier.)
The big Rhodes-Athens or Crete ferryboat passes daily in summertime
. In summertime, the small portbay is packed with 12, 15 or more yachts,
and that can cause trouble, because the sandy ground does not hold
the anchor very good, but strong winds can fall down from the steep
mountains.
There is a big Port Police and Immigration office exactly looking over
the port, but the policemen there usually don´t mind for pleasureboats.
Only, when one tries to moore stern to pier with a long line brings
them out, because they think, it´s too dangerous with the long lines
to the land, when the small boats of the island´s guests come in (too
fast) in the evening. So if one tries to moore stern to land, quickly
a policeman appears and asks to untie the lines.
The
outer area of the pier is reserved for Ferryboats, however, one can
go alongside there, when no ferry is expected.
As well around the corner
of the ferry-quai some boats can drop their anchor and moore stern
to pier.(water & electric
on request and on charge)
 |
overlooking
the port, there is an
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Chorio is the name of the upper village, and numerous houses in cycladic white and blue are located around the castle, which is about to be renovated. |
 There were rich people in former times on the islands, but nowadays, they live often in Athens, or even Australia and only come to their home-island for a vacation in their holiday house |
 The panoramic view over the aegean sea are georgeous - this looks like Santorini, but it´s even more beautiful (and cheaper anyway) |
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The upper village changed it´s face and a pedestrian´s area lured several bars and restaurants to open, so in summertime, the evenings start to be the big stroll
There is a very good and friendly butcher and below the mills one can find several supermarkets, some are very well equipped in summertime. On the harbour below are only some small bars and shops, but the bakery as well.
Astipalaia - the island with many bays
that can be used for mooring a sailing boat.
Coming from N (Amorgos or Levitha) the bay of VATHY is a good choice,
it is very safe but there is nothing but a Taverna.
The southern coast has several big bays and hosts the port. If the
port area is too packed with boats, the next bay leftsided of the
castle is a good alternative. Another nice bay is Maltezana more easterly
and it has some Tavernas and a summerly tourist life from the holiday
homes around. One can sit here all day in the shade, watching the fishermen
repairing their nets, drying Octopusses....
In the middle of the island´s southern bay, there are 2 small islands,
where one can stay for a night, if the wind is not too strong. However,
even with little wind the waves and swell make the boat shaking.
However:
if one wants to sail to the east (Kos or Tilos) it is recommended
to stay here and safe more than 1 hour on the way to Kos, Nisyros or
Tilos.
Another bay for a night stay is Porto Agrilithi, it´s pretty lonesome
there.
Eat and drink at Astipalaia
One
of the most lovely places to sit is the little Taverna on the beach
- original greek food, greek atmosphere... and the sand of the beach
below your feet. Excellent!
The several places on the terrace in front of the port police office
are ok, but nothing special, I´d say: a little love is missing there!
In Chorio there is a small typical Taverna, which is usually packed
in summer, on the corner from the Chorio pedestrian´s area to the small
way (not the street) down. Several
bars were mentioned already, they all have a very nice and modern ambiance
and many young people enjoy their evenings here, so one has a lot
to watch.
It is recommended to rent a Motorbike or a car and travel around the island - there is no cultural site, but many lovely corners to explore - but don´t worry too much about the burning garbage just around the first curve and the electrical plant next door of it...